Dos Quetzales

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Tue, 26 Jun 2007 23:12:00 +0000

Rawleee, NC Ya'll

This may be the last post on this blog, I make no promises. I have been kicking around the idea of starting a new one however. Any thoughts on that? I'll be buying a new computer very soon! Andrea and I are well, enjoying our squeaky clean lives here in Raleigh and settling in.
We've got a nice apartment, good jobs, and we're starting to get to know people little by little. I've been landscaping (no surprise) with a cool little landscaping crew. Its hot as hell here and generally worse than DC in August...blah. Andrea is working for the catering branch of the NC Museum of Art and preparing for teaching this August. She was just offered a job at a killer public charter school here called Exploris Middle School, she'll be teaching 6th grade! Thank God for social networking...that seems to be how things work down here for good housing, work, etc.

Well until next time take care, you probably know other ways of getting in touch with us! If we start a new blog I'll post it here as a link. Much love, Luke

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Fri, 04 May 2007 14:54:00 +0000

Today I've made available some photo's from our time in Guate. Please feel free to click over to imagestation.com and check them out. I broke them up into three separate files, companeros (friends), experiences, and details (which are like close ups and sort of arty).

So go to imagestation.com then do a member search for lukewallenbeck. Click on me (shown in a hammock) and continue on to the photo files.

Sadly we lost the photographs from our first 3 months or so due to a memory chip f&*% up. Also many times we went to places to dangerous to bring anything valuable like a camera. Thirdly indigenous people perceive photography from strangers as rude so we rarely photographed people, and when we did we asked first. The last disclaimer here is that we are notorious for forgetting to bring our camera places and take pictures.

If you have great pictures you'd like to pass on to us please do, I can add them to our collection.

Enjoy, Luke

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Mon, 30 Apr 2007 15:42:00 +0000

Update long overdue...

Hello friends,

Andrea and I have been very busy since we left Guatemala April 12th. Everything went reasonably well and it was quite a shock to arrive in Charlotte, NC for our short layover. Immediately we were faced with angry customs officials, and ushered into the land of the giants. We were all of a sudden average people, in height, language, looks, and culture, etc. On the other hand, hot water from bathroom faucets and clean drinking fountains were welcome comforts.

Since arriving we have visited with many friends and family starting in Washington DC. An amazingly comfortable apartment kept us rested and warm (frickin freezing outside), and housed my parents while they visited. If you ever need a furnished apartment right near Union Station we know the best option, thanks John and Andy! It was great seeing my sisters and parents and wandering around our old neighborhood, speaking Spanish even!

Since then we've gone to Lancaster City, Pa - Fredricksburg, VA - Philadelphia, PA - Buffalo/Niagara Falls, NY - Rochester, NY - and now we are in Syracuse, NY with Andrea's family. Whffeew, the fun never stops.

I have confirmed my intention to attend NC State beginning July 2nd and we plan to visit Raleigh this week for a look around. We hope to line up an apartment there by June 1st if not sooner. So now you have people to visit in NC, we'll be a short drive from the Mtns and ocean!

Of course this is the cliff's notes version of our last month or so, but we saw lots of good friends, ate some of my favorite foods (Viola's Subs), drank really good beer, and caught up with family.

Check in again soon as we are putting the finishing touches on our best Guatemala photos. We be including a link to another site which should allow a better viewing experience.

I hope your all well, we miss you guys from Guate, and can't wait to plan our return.
Abrazos a todos, Luke

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Tue, 03 Apr 2007 22:43:00 +0000

Utila Island, Honduras
April 12 - 17

What turned out to be the last major destination of our trip was the smallest of Honduras' Bay Islands, Utila. You may be able to picture this Caribe island if you can imagine what the entire Caribbean was like 60 years ago before "club meds" and cruise ships took over. We arrived by ferry into the one small harbor, and found our way to the one main street. The majority of the buildings we found here are ramshakle wooden things up on stilts. In recent years Utila has become famous for its incredibly cheap scuba diving courses and thriving corral reefs. We had an amazing time soaking up the natural beauty and intriguing local culture.

If you have time definitely check out the bizarre history of the Bay Islanders. Utilians are primarily descendants of English and Spanish pirates. They speak a rhythmic English creole almost impossible to understand. Yet most people speak Creole, Spanish, and often English. As you can imagine the pace of life here was ultimate chill. Shirts and shoes were optional, and even road construction, beer delivery, and cycling was done in flip flops. Most things close at lunch, and or between 2 - 6 pm, which drove us crazy a few times. We ate Baleada's, the Honduran typical food, at least twice a day, although one night splurged on fresh grilled tuna and maji maji.

Nearly everyday we swam in the warm clear waters close to shore, and 3 times snorkeled around the reefs. We could literally jump in or swim to the reef in a matter of seconds! We even did a night snorkel with a small group off of Corral View point. Being novice reef ecologists I won't bore you with our findings other than to say it was full of life, day and night. We were definitely bit with scuba fever and almost took the three day license course. Theres just so much under water, who knew!

The main highlights were the octopus, squid, phosphorescence, moray eel, puffer, and flounder that we saw. Not to mention the scores of vibrant fish and corral too numerous to recount. On land we loved chasing the blue crabs and iguanas that line the roads and paths there. Plan your trip soon as of course over-fishing and over-development are ruining both the corral reefs and the islands unique forests.

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Tue, 03 Apr 2007 17:26:00 +0000

my heartfelt ode, although not Neruda

Ode to my Sunglasses

Oh wondrous form!
Forty pesos of rhinestoned glory;
White rose of Chiapas.
What honored fabrica lovingly tattooed "hecho" on your ample arm?

Guardian of iris and pupil
Deflector of UV
Veil of Obscurity
Biolab goggles
Pick-up riding, mosquito splattered windshield
Unscratched, unbent, unfashionable
Perfect companion
Frosting on my cake
My temple's adornment

When I slipped you on
(tenderly over nose, cheeks, ears and brow)
Shimmering in the sunlight
My inner Latina sa-wa-ayed
her bronzed hips in the rhythm of a sultry tune

Oh! but I let you go!
I underestimated the current of the river!
In an instant
(like an arrow through my heart)
You were snatched from my crown
Swept from my grasping fingers
And sank
Beneath the aquamarine ripples.
Gone.

Yesterday I was Ready For Anything
Now I am simply Blinded Traveler,
Squinting.

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Tue, 20 Mar 2007 20:22:00 +0000

Hey peoples, we are on the road traveling right now and can´t wait to tell you our stories and show you our pictures! We left March 14th and will return to Antigua the first week of April. Our first stop was Semuc Champey, then Flores & El Remate, Peten. We saw Tikal and Lago de Yaxhá and arrived in Rio Dulce last night. We plan to stay at Denny´s Beach while we are here. After exploring a few days in this area of Guatemala we will likely head to Utila, Hondurus to take in the beauty of the worlds 2nd largest barrier reef located here on Hondurus´north shore. We will see how much time and money we have left at that point and God only knows what tomarrows adventures will bring. We have had the best of times and a few- wow i´m on the brink of hating this place for ever- times! But we are learning, this traveling on the cheap takes some specific skills and little by little we are figuring it out.

By the way I got into the NC State grad program for landscape architecture, Wahoo! I knew I wasn´t a complete value-less slug! My self-esteem took a few hits being rejected from UBC, UW, and Berkeley! Only waiting to hear from two more, but for now I´m enjoying this victory.

Adios, te vaya bien. (mom that means ¨goodbye, and go well¨)

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Fri, 09 Mar 2007 21:36:00 +0000

A La Gran Puta...

Here's a little story that outlines a very common experience for travelers and citizens of "developing" countries. Not that it doesn't happen in "developed" countries, but it happens here all the time. So a couple of us have been wanting to hike the nearly 14,000 ft. volcano Acatenengo for some time. We did our research, made a plan, and met this morning at 5 am near the "bus terminal" to catch a bus/taxi to the town La Soledad, where the trail head begins. It seemed wise to allow some extra time on both ends, public transport is unpredictable and we wanted to be up and back before dark at around 6pm. La Soledad is only about 15 minutes away by car, but hey ya never know.

I will list our morning in bullet points to speed up the story telling process. Like the show "24" right!

- 5:05 am, met Pete and Allison in the COLD dark near the market.
- 5:30 walk up to Central Park to look for taxi's after finding no buses to Duñas.
- 6 am Scrap public transport plan altogether and go get Allison's car "Fidel."
- 6:20 am parking attendant wakes up from our yelling and banging on the outside gate.
- 6:30 am leave Antigua, (as old Fidel needs time to warm up), pass through San Miguel Dueñas, and find our way blocked by two Tractor Trailers on an up hill dirt road less than 5 minutes from La Soledad.
- 6:40 am Pete and I go see whats the problem, being manly men and all. Basically the trucks are full of coffee cherries and the lead truck is unable to get traction up the hill. The good news is that the second truck is the only one blocking our way. The one that isn't stuck, so the driver says oh no problem I can move over for you.
- 7am now we are a line of 5 cars, as the other buses and cars have since turned around, the 2nd driver never moved the truck, and the first truck decides to give it another go, this time being towed with about a 1" thick metal chain! Yikes...dangerous.
- 7:25 am Dumb ass, pee for a brain, truck drivers decide to let all the traffic pass after more than 45 minutes waiting... lots of cursing at that point unfit for the children that read this.
- 7:30 we "arrive" and find that La Soledad seems to be a coffee farm, the road became a footpath, and we are unsure what to do with the car. A few people confirm its possible to hike Acatenengo from that point but its much "easier" to go a different route. Running out of time and in a weakened mental state we choose to follow their advice.
- 8:15 am finds us on another endless dirt road climbing and climbing. Fidel starts smoking a little bit, and we decide its time to reevaluate our situation. We believe the easier way was most likely an actual road that leads nearly all the way up the freakin mountain, typical. So defeated and without enough time to attempt the summit anyway, we head back to Antigua.
- 9 am finds us sitting down in a nice restaurant awaiting hot tipica breakfast and coffee. The sort of food that really, really, tastes good after a tough hike.

Damn you Acatenengo. You alluded us this time, but we've lived in Guate long enough to shake off these mind-blowingly stupid set backs, and will return with a vengeance!

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Thu, 01 Mar 2007 03:17:00 +0000

Water + Metal + Electricity

I have a love hate relationship with taking showers here. The love comes from the ability, with very few exceptions, to enjoy a hot-ish shower on a daily bases. The hate comes is really more of a constant fear of the shower otherwise known as the death trap.

See Picture:

Directions: Turn on water with enough pressure to riase a sometimes hidden metal piece in order to create a complete circut able to heat water passing by. I admit, despite my fear, I have actually only been electricuted once although it was memorable. While raising my pink, slightly failing apart loofa to be rinsed, those pesky charged electrons jumped through the wires, suds, into my fingers and surged out through my elbow.

For all I know, showers opperate in the same or similar fashion in the US- the difference is that the web of wires running from the shower head to the power source are nicely hidden behind a wall so that I can lather in ignorance.

The best (or worst) specamin showerhead yet we encountered on our most recent trip to Xela. It is clearly an older version.

Luke had to duck under it. The metal faucet was next to the frayed wires so that you had to get right up into its business of flowing electrified water just to turn it on & off. The best part was the huge spark that flashed indicating that the circut was indeed completed.

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Sat, 24 Feb 2007 22:43:00 +0000

Favorite memories from our trip to Mexico and Xela.

- Eating kick arse tacos in Tapachula, Mexico! The peso is very weak even compared to the quetzal. In fact my memories of Tapapchula are good food, wedding dress stores, VW bugs, the fleet of public minibuses, and they are much taller people than guatemalans. And oh do they love their neon paint!

- Xela Natural History Museum's floor to ceiling collection of stuffed, pickled, and dried animals. They had everything from the shocking 8 legged baby goat, dozens of corn snakes in jars, a chow chow dog on top of two lions, and many large birds held together with conspicuous amounts of tape. Not to mention the holy Quetzal bird in a gold-leaved show case, (if only the living ones were this protected.)Does it get any better! I had tears in my eyes I laughed so hard! I guess I'm sort of a freak as well...

- Incredible views while riding through the western highlands of Guate. Rolling fog, small farming villages, new beautiful textiles and faces, the occasional forest, and shear drops of hundreds of feet inches from our ferocious chicken bus.

Andrea's new fashion sun glasses rhine stones and all made me laugh as much as anything this trip!

- Xela has a great local brew called "Cabro" started by german migrants in the late 1800's. There is an odd german influence in Xela as many germans fled there before and after the war years. It has since been bought out by Gallo sad but true.

- Our hotel in Xela had a "shockingly" hot shower in it! Eventually we had the courage to actually try it Luke first of course, and some how survived.

- In Xela we visited a modern mall in order to see a movie, and we were suprised that the majority of people were traditional mayan women shopping and working there. The scene provided many ironic moments ie a group of traditionally dressed mayan woman balancing huge piles of cardboard boxes on their heads while window shopping at the pet store. Mixed feeling with that for sure... Memories of Ï Heart Huckabees¨ and I quote ¨You don´t think Steven and his family couldn´t use some suburban sprall?¨

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Mon, 19 Feb 2007 23:22:00 +0000

Around Town

statue of Maria at night

a favorite entrance

looking down

looking up at the birthday cake church

f is for frio

texture

conche stairs

who goes there?

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Mon, 19 Feb 2007 22:48:00 +0000

Subimos Agua

After months of staring 12,240 feet up at our beloved Volcàn de Agua, we finally climbed the volcano, albiet last minute and a bit hung over. With our friends Pete and Kevin caught the trail in Santa Maria de Jesùs and slowly picked our way over a rocky and trash strewn path. There were so many memorable parts. It was a windy day so at times the clouds were zooming past us at incredible speeds. About half way up, the landscape changed from a green canopy to rocky cliffs covered with fuzzy tuffs of ornamental grass. There is one great scar of a canyon to cross that reminded me of the eternal abis from "Garden State". We came across plants that we had never seen before including a really cool dragon-foot flower. The views absolutely were amazing from that high up and it was entertaining to pick out familiar places below. The crater is sadly trashed with litter and broken bottles around a rocky soccer field (where better to play soccer?) and a little chapel that is home to squatters. We were, however, too pooped at the sumit to climb the other rim to see the Pacific Ocean on the other side. I fully realized how long the climb was only when we ran back down hoping to catch the last bus and beat sunset. Bus long gone, a group of eleven of us jumped in the back of a pick up and speed back to Antigua, squealing around blind turns and holding on for dear life (definately the most dangerous and scary part of the journey).

Home is always a great return . We aren´t too sore today but definately looking forward to tomorrow and the opportunity to sit all day on the bus to Mexico.

luke chillin´at Jean Luis´ incredible house with Volcàn Agua ever in the background

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Sat, 17 Feb 2007 22:35:00 +0000

Thank you for smoking
We are far removed from smoking bans in bars and restaurnats! On the contrary, I am often fighting over ash trays with the waiters (we try to keep at least two on every table). I was watching a health and beauty show the other day on tv warning viewers that your skin absorbs whatever is in your envirnonment! Yikes- I have fried chicken fingers and marlboro reds building castels in my pores! I enjoy quite a hearty chuckle at the cigarette holders that have been afixed atop toiltet paper dispersers all thoughout this country- Heaven forbid you have to put out at light before you "shake out the spiders". It is a sad sight when you encounter a shriveled up and melted toilet paper dispenser, or countertop for that matter, that was not given the gift of an ashtray. I once had a very good friend (unnamed) drive me home (don´t worry mom- not very far), in his five speed, with a open can of Gallo beer in one hand and a cigarrette in the other- and all the while warning me that drinking coffee was bad for my health. I´ll stick to coffee- make it an expresso.

Tuk Tuks
Tuk Tuks are little motorized tuna cans that, for a small fee, rattle you all the way home. They have only recently been imported from Thailand into Central America. Six adults sharing one tuk tuk my personal record to date. The squish factor is actually a zillion times more comfortable than riding solo and being tumbled as in a dryer against every interior surface as the driver races over the cobble stones. I also prefer tuk tuks with actual metal doors even if it is only to my waist, also for the anti tumble out effect. The velcro plastic flap can only resist so much bouncing. Our good friend Pirate Pete has a dream of making an ultimate tuk tuk video game. Apparently, in Thailand, these bad boys are hooked up with car engines and become monster truck tin cans. Pick your color and race around town, picking up passangers and other odd tasks while dodging packs of stray dogs, chicken busses, or other pedestrians. There could be the night time series or rainy-season level for the more advanced players. Most tuk tuks are also equiped with a siren of some sort- not too loud and along the lines of video game. Talented drivers can start and stop the siren so that it whistles at the pretty girls they passby. Now is that hot or what!

Duck tape has 101 uses.
If it was more readily available in Guatemala, an additional 1001 uses would be discovered in the first week and it would grow nine lives to boot. Instead, plastic bags fill the void of the "use for just about anything" and "you´d better not leave home without it" category. Plastic bags are used with ingenuity and absudaty alike. Like most places in the US, everything you every buy is put in a bag but a day at the market means that I visit 20 stalls and recieve a bag from each. At Chritmas time, plastic bags were used to make wreaths, bows and other adornments on buildings. I´ve seen them as hair ties, wallets, signs, hats, rope, flags, holding live wires together, soccer ref flags, and kites to name a few. It is an art to drink soda from an open plastic bag, thankfully with the aid of a straw especially while driving a chicken bus, doing paperwork, or even nursing your baby. Oh- and side note- I have yet to see the use of a SLIP KNOT with any of the bags tied firmly shut before handed across the counter- so little chance of actually using the bag as a bag another time. The bag must be transformed into another creation with each use.

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Sat, 17 Feb 2007 02:22:00 +0000

More Proyecto Photos

Those are my fellow Gardeners Benedicto, Anderson, and Nelson in the top left. The rest are pictures of other parts of the grounds including a tile mural and my favorite iguana.

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Sat, 17 Feb 2007 02:01:00 +0000

Nuestras Aijhados Photos

I took these photo´s late in the afternoon when most people had already left for the day. All these areas are accessible to the children and if you look closely you can see my fish ¨Lucas¨in the bottom left corner of the fish tank photo!

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Wed, 14 Feb 2007 20:58:00 +0000

Nuestros Ahijados

Andrea and I began volunteering at a "proyecto" (as we call them) at the beginning of January. The name is Nuestros Ahijados, in English it translates to "our godchildren." It's primary vision is to provide comprehensive education to the children who would normally be unable to pay to attend a quality school. A group of people from Bismark, N. Dakota started the proyecto and seem to be the primary supporters. Its been going for quite a while and has continued to expand into other pueblos bringing education, housing, and family health facilities. We volunteer at the main "campus" which is just a short walk to the northern outskirts of Antigua on the road to San Felipe. What is attractive to us is the really incredible gardens they have and maintain for the children, as well as the after school reading programs in their large library. The gardens are a wonderful mix of natural play areas, water falls, murals, quite spaces, and even terrariums with reptiles and fish. Hopefully the pictures do it justice. Incredibly the place is bursting with blooming trees, vines, and tropical foliage even in this dry season. I have enjoyed working with the 3 full-time gardeners Nelson, Benedicto, and Anderson. Although I can hardly ever understand Anderson as he comes from a Mayan village and barely speaks Spanish. Generally we talk about how much money they can make if they emigrate to the US and whether or not so and so is gay and what I think about Guatemaltecas. Limited thus far, but its still in Spanish ya know! Also I have started stocking the beautiful fish pond with koi, as it has been empty for 5 months. Naturally they named the first one "Lucas" after me, and on a side note "to be lucas" also means to be crazy in slang here. Always a good laugh.

Andrea has been volunteering in the large library reading to children three afternoons a week. She has really enjoyed this individual time with the children as well as practicing her spanish. She will have to include some of her stories soon, as she is taking a break from Nuestros Ahijados and working for PLFM as the substitute Director! When does she sleep! Not much actually, but she's hanging in there.

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Wed, 14 Feb 2007 20:38:00 +0000

Feliz Dia del Cariños!

Andrea and I want to say happy St. Valentines day to all you friends and lovers out there! The one...OK the first day of each year where your permitted and indeed encouraged to enjoy classy chocolates and fine wine. This of course is the mandate for all of us, whether we are F.L.A.F.F. (foot-loose and fancy free- shout out to Nikky Naf), married, dating, or have 39 cats and an "I live to knit" bumper sticker on our car.

So may this day bring a large measure of "spicy food and spicy amor."

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Sat, 10 Feb 2007 02:58:00 +0000

Toasted

After more than two months without leaving the ten block grid of Antigua, we headed for a day of hammocks, sun and naps on the Pacific coast. As much as I love the skyline of mountains in their steadfastness, I relished the movement of sand beneath my feet and the magic of the tides.

The ferry to MonteRico beach is its own marvel.

Model Luke
Gleeful Andrea

The tequilla sun set as the full moon awoke above the palms, as if in perfect balance with each other.

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Tue, 06 Feb 2007 03:39:00 +0000

Another Earthquake...

I sat down a few minutes ago excited to check email, take care of some online business and most of all write a new blog entry! Just as I was about to begin my new post another earthquake (or tremble if your tough and have lived through major destruction). IT REALLY FREAKS ME OUT!!! Seriously I can´t remember what I was going to write before, and honestly its been 5 minutes and my eyes are still sort of swimming off-balance. I shutter every 30 seconds becuase I´m sort of jumpy...aghhhh. I know there is a reason so much of Antigua is in ruins. I like to think some terrible war or bizarre one time thing happened hundreds of years ago never to return. Of course the truth is there has been countless earthquakes here- many which have leveled Guatemala over and over, the last one 40 years ago. In 6 months, Andrea and I have easily experienced 6 little shakers and 2 others that registered around 5.5 on the scale of shakes. I cling to a dilusional belief that the government has strick ¨earthquake proof¨building requirments in place. Well I will try to write a more coherent post soon updating our volunteer efforts and general comings and goings. Much love to my people. Luke

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Sat, 13 Jan 2007 02:41:00 +0000

This, the cathedral of San Francisco, is one of my favorite churches in town. In addition to its interesting architedture and art, you are able to view its extensive ruins. This place is holds the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro, the first cannonized saint from Central America (2002) as well as a hall of miracles, crutches and all, attributed to him. This is the view from outside the incredible gate, one of 12+ that surround the property. Don´t let hunger interfere with your prayers, buy a hot dog or peanut brittle before entering.

This view is of the front of the chuch- complete with statues of saints and patrons. It is really lovely when it is adorned for sacred days.

These prayer candles are beside the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro. If you look closely, you can see his image that appears on some of the candles here. This is one of four metal tables in this area. It was early in the day, so there were not many candles- at times there are flames swimming in rainbow colored pools of wax. Beneath are huge vats to catch the wax.

Candles are bought right on the premises in all shapes, colors and sizes.
white - purity
black - against envy
pink - against illness
blue - for getting work
light blue - for your studies or travel
yellow - protection
green - good business
red - love
purple - to stop vices

The second level of the hanging bundles are wax replacas of body parts, hearts, heads, arms, legs or (for good measure) the whole body. I've never seen these lit but they are tied to the figures of saints or to the protective gates/altars surrounding these saints that line the sides of every church. I've witnessed people in knelt in fervent prayer tapping the candles or wax forms against the tombs/statues.

I repect their faith that their specific requests are being heard. The hall of miracles is litterlly cluttered with gifts of thanks to Hermano Pedro< certificates of graduation, abandoned crutches, paintings, picutres of famiy members, embroidered textiles etc.
I don't know if it is my being American, but there are so many missing or fuzzy details surrounding religion, faith and prayer that I would like to get to the bottom of. Ususally I just observe and am content living with the mystery.

I went to an art gallery last month with a friend Mauro. He isn't an every Sunday catholic to say the lesat but he was raised in the church as is most of the populaion. According to him, Mary is God the Mother, the femine face of God the Father just as the Holy Spirit is the female face of Jesus the Son. Instead of a trinity it is a four sided figure or even a coin with two sides. Mary never died and that is one reason why we can pray to her, she is God after all. Mary has many names or personalities- there is the suffering Mary who is always shown with the sword piercing her heart, the ascending Mary, and the Mary of Conception. My personal favorite is Mary as Guadalupe - the Indiginous Mary, dark skinned, traditionally clothed and speaking a Mayan language. She is celebrated as part of the Christmas festivities but that is another story.

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Mon, 08 Jan 2007 22:14:00 +0000

The New Year Finds Us

busy! but happy. We worked nonstop thru the holidays and just celebrated our first day off together up at our favorite little lodge up in the mountains. I started my day off with a portion of melt in your mouth bacon while taking in the view then soon moved on to nap number one. Luke started a fire in the suana and soon we enjoyed a swelternigly wonderful detox session. Then another nap. Evetually settled into an Adorandack chair with a new book by Tom Robbins with some of the best writing I´ve come across in a long time. Next family style veggitarian dinner from heaven. After watching the Big Labowski, we spent the next hours beside a campfire under a full moon. Woke up the next morning for more of the same before decending back to Antigua in the back of a ricketty pick up just in time to catch a cappuchino and head to work. Fabulous.

New Years was another unexpected blast of a time. We both had to work until 1:30 am but the last hour was a ruckus group of people we knew fairly well all dancing on the bar and having a good time. We spontaneously left with two of the waiters and were led all over town into different danceclubs where we shook our asses until moving on to the next one. New Years is the one night that businesses can stay open past 1 so it was a party everywhere. The street was littered with confetti, empty rum bottles, and remains of firecrackers, and happy people. We ended our night early with tacos from our favorite window somewhere around 4 in the morning. We climbed into to bed content albiet a little sore and slept in late.

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Fri, 29 Dec 2006 20:02:00 +0000

Andrea hard at work at the downstairs bar

Wallenbeck's Bar & Grill

Well the time came for me to join the land of the working joe. Now when you visit Antigua's most gringo bar/restaurant you'll have the option of being served by Andrea upstairs or by me at the downstairs bar. I've worked just about a week and a half and have enjoyed it as well. Like Andrea said we speak a decent amount of Spanish between the waitstaff and customers. Its a nice change from classes as well, because not only do people not correct me, they praise my "really good" Spanish! Ok so maybe they are buttering me up for stronger drinks, or just don't expect extranjero's to speak Spanish at all.

Favorite memories thus far:
1. Every time I make a White Russian I smile and think of The Dude.
2. I've met the "star" soccer player for the local team, jungle biologist from Peten, Canadian film maker, and lots of other nice people from everywhere in the world.
3. The strange "I need a bag of ice to keep my insulin cold" man whose been visiting recently.
4. Singing "Sweet Caroline" at the big down stairs bar with a rowdy bunch.
5. All the free food I get to eat everyday....yum. I've even been eating lots of delicious salads which can cost travelers dearly if they aren't lucky. Our restaurant is super clean and safe though.
6. I don't know if this is a good memory, but it certainly was crazy, I worked the "ladies Bar" on ladies night where ladies cocktails are only 3 Q. It was mayhem, hundreds of women yelling, sometimes angry, pushing and I might add not tipping at all. But I was hit on by a very old Guatemalan lady which was kind of sweet.

Adios, Luke

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Tue, 26 Dec 2006 21:24:00 +0000

We treated ourselves to a Christmas dinner at Panza Verde a famous little hotel and restaurant. Unfortuanatley the guys from Buena Vista weren´t playing but we were nevertheless serenaded by a violin

menu: shrimp bisque, sundried tomato bread, salad with arugala and goat cheese, salmon with beats and cream sause, chocolate mouse, pinot noir!

I forgot food could taste this good! Besides delicious, it is the most beautiful place I have ever dined. and I was in great company. Merry Christmas to us . . . and to all of you, our friends and family in whatever corner of the world this message finds you.

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Tue, 26 Dec 2006 19:30:00 +0000

A Merry Chapin Christmas Eve

Nearly 4 months have passed since we moved here to Antigua, the Christmas holiday was a sort of half-way mark for us. However, as much as we talked about potential christmas plans, the day more or less snuck up on us. Maybe there is a little xmas virus or dna strand that suddenly wakes up two days before, i don´t know? As you can see in our pictures Antigua was beautifully decoracted for all of December, parties and fireworks in central park every weekend night, and thanks to children here endless ¨bombas¨in the streets making me go deaf. God forbid some traumatized vietnam vets visit antigua! We´ve also been lucky to avoid the typical hyper-commercial christmas we´ve come to expect and loath in the US. For all this, maybe because of this, I wasn´t feeling the ¨christmas¨spirit building up here.

Then out of the blue Christmas Eve day we decided to change our plans last minute, and stay in Antigua. We ended up having a great time that evening. We started by walking around the park, taking pictures, and drinking capuccino´s with baily´s, yum. We ran into some good friends, got our shoes shinded, and watched all the people young and old enjoying the warm evening.

Then my inner-voice told me I needed to eat some tacos. We made our way to our favorite taco stand, located adjacent to La Merced church, and ended up arriving in time for a party and midnight mass. The party was complete with marimba music, dancing giant heads, sparklers, lots of tacos, a posada, and lastly a 30 minute fireworks display directly overhead! At 10pm everyone filed into the cathedral for a standing room only christmas mass. I was suprised to hear really beautiful music, understand the homile, and leave full and content.

It all felt right, like Andrea and I were meant to be there. That feeling doesn´t come along very often, and so I am thankful for my love of tacos.

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Sun, 17 Dec 2006 20:45:00 +0000

Ve Los Bills!

I just wanted to say "Go Bills" from guatemala as there probably not getting enough support from central america and there kicking some serious booty!
Peace Luke

noreply@blogger.com (Luke & Andrea) — Sun, 17 Dec 2006 19:35:00 +0000

Student by Day
...Bartender by Night

After not working for how many months?, I took a night job at and American sports bar called Crazy Monkey. It definitely wasn´t my first choice of work but convernient and I am actually having a good time . I´ve made the transition to staying up until 2am and then trying to sleep in over the sound of the construction crew in the morning.

I make a woping dollar and hour plus dinner and $4 credit for drinks or food on my days off. Conveniently for Luke, he can eat a free meal while watching NFL tickekt. I speak Spanish more that I thought I would even if it is the same ten phrases over and over: On the rocks? I´m 27. I´m from NY. No, I´m married. Here´s your bill. What no tip?

It is really entertaining work. I meet so many different types of people from tourists, peace corps volunteers, crusty long time residents and partying locals.
Among my favorites have been the American gemologists (the inspected every piece of my jewlery with a mini flashlight), the 2 Pepsi guy, the man that growls, the Irish documentary crew, the Nicaraguan selling prosetheses, the blue- shot girl, and Hector the perfectionist waiter

Luke usually waits up for me and I recount my nightly stories as we finally drift to sleep.