This, the cathedral of San Francisco, is one of my favorite churches in town. In addition to its interesting architedture and art, you are able to view its extensive ruins. This place is holds the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro, the first cannonized saint from Central America (2002) as well as a hall of miracles, crutches and all, attributed to him. This is the view from outside the incredible gate, one of 12+ that surround the property. Don´t let hunger interfere with your prayers, buy a hot dog or peanut brittle before entering.

This view is of the front of the chuch- complete with statues of saints and patrons. It is really lovely when it is adorned for sacred days.












These prayer candles are beside the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro. If you look closely, you can see his image that appears on some of the candles here. This is one of four metal tables in this area. It was early in the day, so there were not many candles- at times there are flames swimming in rainbow colored pools of wax. Beneath are huge vats to catch the wax.

Candles are bought right on the premises in all shapes, colors and sizes.
white - purity
black - against envy
pink - against illness
blue - for getting work
light blue - for your studies or travel
yellow - protection
green - good business
red - love
purple - to stop vices

The second level of the hanging bundles are wax replacas of body parts, hearts, heads, arms, legs or (for good measure) the whole body. I've never seen these lit but they are tied to the figures of saints or to the protective gates/altars surrounding these saints that line the sides of every church. I've witnessed people in knelt in fervent prayer tapping the candles or wax forms against the tombs/statues.

I repect their faith that their specific requests are being heard. The hall of miracles is litterlly cluttered with gifts of thanks to Hermano Pedro< certificates of graduation, abandoned crutches, paintings, picutres of famiy members, embroidered textiles etc.
I don't know if it is my being American, but there are so many missing or fuzzy details surrounding religion, faith and prayer that I would like to get to the bottom of. Ususally I just observe and am content living with the mystery.



I went to an art gallery last month with a friend Mauro. He isn't an every Sunday catholic to say the lesat but he was raised in the church as is most of the populaion. According to him, Mary is God the Mother, the femine face of God the Father just as the Holy Spirit is the female face of Jesus the Son. Instead of a trinity it is a four sided figure or even a coin with two sides. Mary never died and that is one reason why we can pray to her, she is God after all. Mary has many names or personalities- there is the suffering Mary who is always shown with the sword piercing her heart, the ascending Mary, and the Mary of Conception. My personal favorite is Mary as Guadalupe - the Indiginous Mary, dark skinned, traditionally clothed and speaking a Mayan language. She is celebrated as part of the Christmas festivities but that is another story.

The New Year Finds Us

busy! but happy. We worked nonstop thru the holidays and just celebrated our first day off together up at our favorite little lodge up in the mountains. I started my day off with a portion of melt in your mouth bacon while taking in the view then soon moved on to nap number one. Luke started a fire in the suana and soon we enjoyed a swelternigly wonderful detox session. Then another nap. Evetually settled into an Adorandack chair with a new book by Tom Robbins with some of the best writing I´ve come across in a long time. Next family style veggitarian dinner from heaven. After watching the Big Labowski, we spent the next hours beside a campfire under a full moon. Woke up the next morning for more of the same before decending back to Antigua in the back of a ricketty pick up just in time to catch a cappuchino and head to work. Fabulous.

New Years was another unexpected blast of a time. We both had to work until 1:30 am but the last hour was a ruckus group of people we knew fairly well all dancing on the bar and having a good time. We spontaneously left with two of the waiters and were led all over town into different danceclubs where we shook our asses until moving on to the next one. New Years is the one night that businesses can stay open past 1 so it was a party everywhere. The street was littered with confetti, empty rum bottles, and remains of firecrackers, and happy people. We ended our night early with tacos from our favorite window somewhere around 4 in the morning. We climbed into to bed content albiet a little sore and slept in late.